Showing posts with label Tübingen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tübingen. Show all posts

Made in Germany 40 - Exiting the Castle


Tübingen in the snow - some winters we had lots of snow, some winters not so much. We also had very cold winters when the River Neckar would freeze over so that people could walk on there, ice-skate and enjoy a mug of Glühwein (mulled wine - the booth was right on the ice). We certainly made the best of the situation.

Tübingen's castle is right above the medieval city center and its exit, as you see her, leads right to the Irish Pub! The castle houses a museum and some departments of its university, the more "exotic" ones that don't draw big crowds (= students) like ethnology or anthropology. It was quite a climb up there on cobblestone streets (better not wear heels here), but there was also a small path that led to the Schloßberg (castle hill) right behind it, at which end I lived, where it met the forest. It was a lovely way to enter town on a Saturday morning.

This is my last photo in the "Made in Germany" series. It has been in this location for 40 weeks, and I think now by the end of the year is a good time to say farewell to it. This doesn't mean that there won't be anything German on my blog anymore - German(y) and I belong together, and I will continue to share my native country with you, but not quite as regularly as I used to.

Thank you for following "Made in Germany", commenting and sharing your memories of Germany or something German. I really enjoyed writing and posting about Germany every Monday.

View from the castle



Made in Germany 38 - Christmas Market


The third weekend in Advent - which we just had - is the date for the Christmas market in Tübingen. From Friday afternoon to Sunday evening the narrow lanes in the ancient city center are full with booths, heavenly smells of wonderful food and drinks, Christmas music and happy faces. It is one of the events before Christmas that I was most looking forward to.

I wrote about the Tübingen Christmas market back in November 2010, and I will post this again today. I think it captures the mood perfectly:


And I remembered the third weekend in December back in Tübingen, Germany, where I spent twenty years of my life. It's a medieval university town with its typical old buildings that look like they're straight out of a fairy tale by the Grimm Brothers. Narrow lanes wind among those houses and cars are not allowed within the city center. It's a huge pedestrian zone that makes wandering the old alleys so peaceful.

This is the setting for one of the most beautiful traditions of the town: the Christmas Market. It's nothing like its big siblings in Nürnberg, Stuttgart or München and so many other cities. First, it only takes place from Friday to Sunday and not weeks and weeks and weeks. Second, it's not commercial. There are tons of local artists who sell their work, school classes who raise funds for their annual end-of-the-year trip, small local environmental groups who fight for preservation, neighborhoods who try to raise awareness and money for the disabled - the list could go on and on.

So that's the eye-candy. The next is the food - just one word: delicious. The food is mainly local specialities, the best time to eat "Bubaspitzle mit Sauerkraut" (a thin rolled kind of potato pasta with sauerkraut and sometimes bacon), one of my fondest memories in the food department. There was a guy with a complicated portable special oven who made Swiss Raclette that was to die for. Of course there was Glühwein (mulled wine), very welcome in the cold. None of the food or the drink was allowed in any kind of plastic or paper container, everything had to be re-usable! So you bought a beautiful mug with the words "Tübinger Weihnachtsmarkt" written on it and this could be refilled at any booth that offered Glühwein or juice punch (I still have half a dozen of those mugs - each year has a different color). Most of the plates were eatable - envision big sturdy waffles for apple strudel! No trash!

Throughout the market you could listen to music. Children were singing, little choirs stood at the fountain in the market square, someone played the violin, another one the bagpipe, and again another one the flute. There was a cantata concert in the main church. There were jugglers and clowns. It was a very festive atmosphere.

We felt like community, we were community. People spending three days in the cold in order to help someone else. To serve others. To share stories. To entertain children and their stressed parents. To bring smiles on the cold faces, red cheeks from the mulled wine.

That third weekend in December, no matter whether the sun was shining, it was raining or snowing, was spent in the streets among those medieval buildings. It was freezing cold - always. But everyone was there. Community.

Made in Germany 36 - Advent in the Streets


Yesterday we celebrated the First of Advent.
Advent is a time that is quite important in Germany. Families have an advent wreath in their homes, and each Sunday a further candle will be lit until all four candles a glowing their beautiful warm light. The towns and cities are decorated festively. Some really go the extra mile, some have more basic little lights like this one here, in the Unterstadt ("lower town") of Tübingen. Christmas markets are making their appearances, the small local ones often much more beautiful than the big ones in Nürnberg or München. Children walk the streets singing Christmas carols. If we're lucky, there's even some snow to further add to this special atmosphere. There is Glühwein (spiced mulled wine) and gingerbread.

Wishing all of you a wonderful Advent.


Made in Germany 34 - Medieval Rooftops


The view from the castle over the rooftops of the medieval town center of Tübingen. Behind the castle, Hohentübingen, the long Schloßberg (castle mountain) stretched out at which very end I lived. On Saturday mornings I often walked into the town center and sometimes I took the shortcut through the castle. I always enjoyed this beautiful view over the rooftops of Tübingen. To the right, just outside the picture, was the river Neckar (remember where we did the punting). The big church you can see is the Stiftskirche, the main Protestant church in Tübingen, a Gothic era church. On weekends you can climb up to the tower - this is actually where the Geek and I had our first kiss!! Quite romantic, isn't it?

Made in Germany 28 - Punting


Last week I promised to tell you more about punting in Tübingen.
Punting is most popular among the students of the university, but over the past decade or two it has also been discovered by the tourists. You can rent a punting boat, but you still need someone who knows how to punt - it's an art of its own. As far as I know, Tübingen is the only University town in Germany that practices punting and shares this tradition with Oxford and Cambridge in England.


Here are the punting boats lined up at the Neckarfront, the photo of which I showed you last week.
Most of the boats are owned by University organisations or students' associations. In order to enjoy a trip on a punting boat - and have a party at the same time - you need to know someone from those organisations, and someone who knows how to punt if you can't do it yourself.


The punter stands either at the top or the end of the boat, holding a very long thick stick that s/he sticks to the ground of the river (the Neckar is not very deep here) and thus thrusts the boat forward. It's physically demanding and not easy at all. Unexperienced punters often end up in the water...


A look into a punting boat: do you see those long boards in a pile? They will be turned into seats, and you will leisurely travel down the Neckar, sipping a glass of wine or some beer and eating whatever food people brought. Before you start out, however, you often have to scoop out water from the bottom of the boat.


You can have your trip during the day or, even better, in the evening. Very romantic. 

(Sorry for the bad quality of the photo)

On a Thursday in May (I forgot which one) the fraternities and sororities hold the big punting race, "Stocherkahnrennen". It's the slowest and wettest race, with dozens of punting boats. They start out at the Hölderlinturm, go to the bridge and have to go around the pillar of the bridge (the so-called "Nadelöhr" - eye of the needle) which is the biggest challenge because when the first boats round that pillar they will find themselves in the crowd of the boats behind them and THAT can get pretty nasty and VERY wet - it's the most popular part of the race. There is not much space between the pillar and the island - so imagine those long boats in the big muddle! After that it's just speed - go down on the other side of the Neckar island and cross the finish line. The loosing punters have to drink a bottle of cod-liver oil and the winners have to host the following year's party.

Oh yes, the party. There's a HUGE party in the evening - I mean, HUGE.


By now you recognize this house - the Hölderlinturm in its autumn dress. And, of course, the punting boats. Start to the big race.

One of the most beautiful traditions in the little town of Tübingen.

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Made in Germany 27 - Tübingen Neckarfront


Remember the Hölderlinturm that I showed you here last Monday? You can spot it at the left side of this photo. Here you can see the entire row of houses along the river Neckar that ends with the Hölderlinturm. These houses are mainly from the 15th and 16th century, most of them beautifully renovated inside. The biggest problem in these houses, since they are so close to the river, is the dampness which often shows in mold. It needs a lot of maintenance to live in these houses, but the location is just priceless. This "strip" is called the "Neckarfront" and behind the little wall you can see there is a narrow path that you can walk along. In summer or whenever the weather is warm and nice people hang out on the wall, eating ice cream and just enjoying life. The trees on the left side belong to the long island that divides the Neckar here and houses the Neckarallee, a long path lined by tall trees. It's especially beautiful in autumn when the leaves are turning. The boats in the background near the Hölderlinturm are punt boats - we did a lot of punting "back in the days". Punting is a tradition among the University's students and every May there is a big punting race that draws huge crowds and is a lot of fun.

I might tell you more about the punting next week!!

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Made in Germany 26 - Hölderlin


This is one of my favorite pictures that I took while I was living in Tübingen. It is the Hölderlinturm (tower of Hölderlin). The - supposedly mad - poet Friedrich Hölderlin spent 36 years of his life with the Zimmer family who gave him a room in this tower, until his death in June 1843, at the age of 73.

His poems have inspired many composers (among others Johannes Brahms) and also modern bands in Germany, Sweden and Finland. The language of his poems is not the easiest but it is extraordinary beautiful. Translating it into another language must be extremely difficult as it is with all poetry.

I found an English translation by David Constantine of Hölderlin's poem "Wohl geh ich täglich..." - the title of the translation is completely different.


'Another day'


Another day. I follow another path,
Enter the leafing woodland, visit the spring
Or the rocks where the roses bloom
Or search from a look-out, but nowhere

Love are you to be seen in the light of day
And down the wind go the words of our once so
Beneficent conversation...

Your beloved face has gone beyond my sight,
The music of your life is dying away
Beyond my hearing and all the songs
That worked a miracle of peace once on

My heart, where are they now? It was long ago,
So long and the youth I was has aged nor is
Even the earth that smiled at me then
The same. Farewell. Live with that word always.

For the soul goes from me to return to you
Day after day and my eyes shed tears that they
Cannot look over to where you are
And see you clearly ever again.


If you're interested in the German original, you can find it here.
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Made in Germany 22 - August Break #22 - Summer in the City


Cities, town and villages in Germany "dress up" for the summer - with lots and lots of flowers. Decorating the streets, squares and bridges with colorful flowers is a summer tradition in which we take some pride. There are even competitions between villages, which one is the most beautifully decorated one.

This is a little lane along a creek in Tübingen. It still belongs to the town center, but many call this part the "Unterstadt" (lower town). Here you can find old, funky pubs, little boutiques and small businesses, and it is also the location for the popular gourmet market on Saturday morning. Kaefer's toddler group that she went to every afternoon is just around the corner. I lovet his part of Tübingen.

Made in Germany 18 - Sunflowers and Wine


We lived in a small village about 10 kilometers away from Tübingen. I often biked to Tübingen along back roads, a very enjoyable ride. Sometimes the entire family biked to town just for some delicious Italian gelato and then back home again. A peaceful, low-key outing.

This is one of the views we had during those bike rides, of sunflowers, the church in the neighbor village and the hills covered with vineyards.

It spelled out one word:
Summer

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Made in Germany 10 - Medieval Houses


Medieval houses in Tübingen, where I lived before we moved to the States. This is in the centre of the town, right across from the big Gothic church. I like how these houses seem to lean on each other, sighing under their age. On the inside, floors are often a bit crooked and the houses "talk", have their own special sounds. However, the apartments inside are beautiful, with a lot of flair and charm.

Do you have something German to share? A special memory, story, book, food, photo? Leave your URL in the comments and we come and visit.


Made in Germany 3


This is the view from my apartment in Tübingen - it's to the west over the Ammertal (later, after I had met the Geek, we moved to a village in the Ammertal). This was the first thing I saw in the morning when I stepped out onto my terrace and the last in the night, and often I witnessed gorgeous sunsets. It was wonderful to watch thunder and lighting in the comfort and safety of my home. In the valley you can see the road I took every day to go to work - that was the time when I still worked with Hewlett-Packard, where I also met the Geek. It was a 20-30 minutes commute, depending on traffic. Since I always left very early for work I seldom had problems with bad traffic. It was different on the way back, but I just wouldn't take the autobahn then but some back roads through the forest (I didn't do that during winter, though). I felt lucky to live in such a beautiful place. These were the best years before my marriage.

Do you have anything German to share? Just leave your link in the comments and we come and visit.

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Skywatch Friday: Sunset


During my thirties I lived in a small appartment almost on top of Schloßberg (castle hill) in the southwestern German town of Tübingen. The biggest window was facing west as was my terrace, and from there I often witnessed the most beautiful sunsets. I loved living there for this gorgeous view alone.

I'm linking this to Skywatch Friday - there you can see many stunning photos of the sky.


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